Jumat, 02 Maret 2012

Canon 5D mark III vs Nikon D800

by Enche on March 2, 2012
Akhirnya, Canon 5D mark III telah diumumkan. Kamera ini adalah kamera DSLR berkelas profesional yang di desain untuk profesional atau fotografer amatir yang mendambakan kamera yang relatif ringan tapi memiliki kualitas yang tinggi.
nikon-d800-vs-canon-5d-mk3
Canon 5D mark III akan menantang Nikon D800 yang diumumkan beberapa waktu yang lalu. Sekilas, 5D mark III terlihat lebih seimbang daripada  Nikon D800. Tahun ini, Canon menekankan ke kecepatan dan kualitas foto daripada besarnya resolusi foto. Nikon memilih meningkatkan ukuran foto dan ketajaman foto.
Tiga sampai empat tahun yang lalu, Nikon menekankan kepada kecepatan dan kualitas foto di kondisi cahaya yang kurang baik. Karena ukuran foto hanya 12 MP, banyak pengguna Nikon meminta Nikon membuat kamera yang dapat membuat foto yang berukuran lebih besar. Maka dari itu, D800 merupakan jawabannya. Nikon D800 memiliki 36 Megapixel, tiga kali lebih besar daripada Nikon D700.
Di sisi lain, Canon 5D mark II memiliki 21 MP, yang cukup besar untuk cetak ukuran besar, tapi Canon 5D mark II kurang begitu cepat dan kurang bagus di ISO tinggi (lebih dari 1600). Hari ini, Canon menjawabnya dengan meluncurkan 5D mark III. Kamera ini lebih baik secara keseluruhan dari Canon 5D mark III, dari kecepatan maupun kualitas foto.
Saya kira jawaban Canon lebih baik daripada Nikon karena 5D mk 3 lebih seimbang dan serba guna. Kamera ini cocok untuk berbagai jenis fotografi dari fotojurnalis, travel, portrait, model, pemandangan, fashion dan lain lain.
Di pihak lain, Nikon D800 lebih terbatas kepada orang-orang yang ingin membuat foto terbesar yang dapat dibuat oleh kamera DSLR. Kamera ini lebih ditujukan kepada jenis fotografi yang lebih spesifik, yang mementingkan ukuran foto untuk dicetak besar atau untuk menangkap detail sejelas-jelasnya. Jenis fotografi yang cocok yaitu fotografi komersial dan fotografi pemandangan.

Kelebihan Canon 5D mark III

  • Kecepatan foto berturut-turut lebih cepat 6 foto per detik vs 4 foto per detik
  • Rentang ISO lebih lebar 100-25600  vs  100-6400
  • Layar LCD sedikit lebih besar 3.2 inci dengan resolusi 1 juta titik
  • Titik fokus 61 buah (41 diantaranya titik fokus yang bertipe silang lebih sensitif) vs titik fokus 51, diantaranya 15 titik cross-type

Kelebihan Nikon D800

  • Ukuran foto lebih besar 36 MP vs 22MP
  • Kompatibel dengan lensa DX (Ukuran foto akan menjadi 15.5 MP)
  • Shutter lebih tahan lama (200 ribu jepret vs 150 ribu jepret)
  • Ada pilihan versi D800E yang lebih tajam
  • Memiliki lampu kilat built-in
  • Lebih murah sekitar 4-5 juta Rupiah

Seri

  • Jendela bidik 100%
  • Processor HDR
  • Tahan air dan debu
  • Dua lubang untuk kartu memori (kartu CF & SD)
  • Bisa merekam video HD, dengan durasi yang cukup lama (30 menit)
  • Hampir sama besar
Berita bagusnya adalah, Nikon D700 dan Canon 5D mark II mungkin akan di diskon dan merupakan kesempatan yang baik untuk membeli salah satu dari kamera tersebut. Meskipun D800 dan 5D mark III akan tersedia dalam waktu beberapa bulan lagi, tapi kamera semacam D700 dan 5D mkII masih merupakan kamera yang sangat bagus.
- Canon 5D mark III contoh foto dari Canon Japan. Nikon D800 contoh foto dari Nikon Imaging USA
sumber ; http://www.infofotografi.com

Sabtu, 14 Januari 2012

How To Use Zoom Blur To Add Action In Your Photos


 Most of us own a zoom lens of one type or another. While I have no specific stat, I’ll say 98% of us do. It seems like a good number and might even be low.

With nearly all of you armed with this type of lens, let’s take a look at a fun way you can add action to your photos. The technique is actually quite simple but takes some practice to master. It is known as zoom blur; blur caused by activating the zoom feature on your lens while the shutter is open. NOTE: While the same effect can be achieved by physically moving your camera closer or further from a subject while shooting, we’ll stick with the zoom feature in this post.
There are three factors that are most important when using zoom blur:
  • Where you start the blur (zoomed in or zoomed out)
  • How much zoom travel
  • How long you spend with the shutter open

Where You Start The Blur

Where you start has a big impact on the outcome of the photo. You can either start zoomed back or zoomed in. My preference is typically to start zoomed out and I’d suggest it for anyone starting out. The reason is it typically allows for the clearest image of the subject before the zoom blur is added. It also gives more of a feeling of the object moving away from the photographer. Here by example, are two different shots of the Memorial Stupa in Thimphu, Bhutan. First, going from zoomed in to zoomed out. (Click on each image for a larger version.)
PeterWestCarey-Bhutan2011-1027-8718
This image is dominated by the golden frame around the statue as compared to the full stupa in which is sits. This is mostly due to the shutter length (1.6 seconds) and spending more time zoomed in than in transition. For a second example, this shot was started zoomed out and then, using a tripod, I zoomed straight in.
PeterWestCarey-Bhutan2011-1027-8741
This shot was 2 seconds long and I allowed more time at the beginning to burn in the stupa image before zooming in. Allowing more time toward the main subject, versus time spent zooming, will allow your main subject to stand out more.

How Much Zoom Travel

Next, it matters how  much you zoom while the shutter is open. For the shot above, I wanted the lights to extend all the way off the screen. But it didn’t quite work as too much light filled the screen for my liking, obscuring the  stupa. Instead, I decided to zoom only part of the way in, hoping it would allow for more of the scene to be visible. I also started further zoomed in to see more of the base of the stupa.
PeterWestCarey-Bhutan2011-1027-8728



I am also helped here by the center point of the zoom being lower than the brightest lights. This helps when the scene is brightly lit and the light can have a tendency to wash out areas of the subject. For instance, the statue in the center is not blurred because the zoom was fast enough to not let too much of its light be exposed.

BONUS TIP: Give It A Bit Of Movement

Especially when dealing with lights at night, adding in a bit of movement can give some interesting effects. For instance, in the examples below I panned slightly up or down to change the path of the blurring lights.

PeterWestCarey-Bhutan2011-1027-8742
PeterWestCarey-Bhutan2011-1027-8736
I will be the first to admit these images aren’t stellar, put-on-a-magazine-cover images. They’re about experimenting and having fun. At times though, with practice, zoom blur can produce some remarkable results as seen in the examples below from Flickr.
Copyright Ernst Vikne

Copyright Balamurugan Natarajan
Copyright Heather Wizell

Shooting Products and Video Using Home Depot Lighting

We had a very tight budget, and I had recently done a behind the scenes video on creating and lighting a unique scene with just Home Depot lights. So, I thought why not do the same thing for the ONE project.

Final Result Samples


Samples from the final set of stills – Shot sRAW on 5D Mark II w/ 50mm @ F/4

The Setup

Step 1 – Flooring and Wall Tiles ($1065 Total cost)

The first step was setting up the flooring and the wall tiles. Interestingly enough, this was actually where the majority of our budget was spent. But, we figured that we would be using this set in future videos, so it wouldn’t be a one time cost.
The entire space is 10×10 feet. So we purchased 100 square feet of wood flooring tiles from Home Depot (which cost around $200) along with 200 square feet of Seesaw Wall Flat tiles to cover both walls. For some reason, these cardboard molded wall flats cost $86 per box and it took 10 boxes to cover both walls. So, yeah, that is where the majority of our budget went as it cost $860. To the attach them to the wall, we simply used 4 pieces of double sided tape per tile.

Step 2 – J.C. Our Lighting Dummy

Whenever I am doing scene setups, I place a lighting dummy where my subject is going to be in order to shape my light. It isn’t reasonable to have a person stand in for 60 minutes as I sit there and mold and shape our light. So, I pop in J.C., our lighting dummy, to give me a nice example of how the lighting is changing as I add and modify each light.

Step 3 – Wiring the Set ($50 in wires and strips at Home Depot)

Concealing cables on a set is always a challenge, especially when you are shooting wide. Luckily, in this video we didn’t shoot wide enough to see the flooring. But, for future videos I knew that we would. But, with the wood tile floors we had a simple solution, we simply ran the cables behind the tiles along the edge of the wall then pushed the wood flooring against the cables to pinch and conceal it against the wall.

Step 4 – Husky Daylight Work Lights ($50 each at Home Depot)

We used two Husky Florescent work lights as uplights to bring out the texture of the wall tiles. We used florescent daylight temperature lights because we wanted the background to be a nice shade of blue, while we white balanced to tungsten that would be used on the subject.


The image above shows the placement of the uplights on the floor. Each is evenly spaced from the corner of the set.

Step 5 – Workforce Tungsten Work Light Stand ($35 at Home Depot)

The next light in our setup is a twin head Workforce Work Light light which we use as a rim light on our subject off camera left.


While using work lights is cheap, there are downsides. Some of which include the heat, the lack of power control, as well as directional control. While we can’t change the first two, we can change the direction of the lighting. To prevent the tungsten light from hitting the uplit walls, I added on a little cardboard GOBO (Go In Between Object). Don’t worry, the light doesn’t get hot enough to burn the cardboard, though just to be safe, I wouldn’t leave the set turned on while I went to do my grocery shopping.

Step 6 – Workforce Tungsten Work Light ($15 at Home Depot)

To define the right side of the subject, I added an additional tungsten Workforce light to camera right.

Step 7 – Tungsten Modeling Light (Can use the $35 light used above)

Since we have modeling lights sitting around the studio, I didn’t need to spend more money on the work lights for our set. So, while we are using a modeling light as the main light, this would look and work exactly the same with the dual light stand used above. The benefit to using a modeling light is that I have a nice little barn door to easily control the direction of the light.
This light is placed directly to camera right and is used as the main light on our subject.

Step 8 – Softening the Main Light ($30 Scrim)

To soften our main light, we are using a standard scrim out of a simple silver reflector kit that can be purchased for $20 – $30 pretty much anywhere. The purpose of softening this light is to prevent hot spots and shine on the subjects face. This is particularly useful as our set is getting quite hot (literally) because of the amount of tungsten lights in close proximity. So, keeping that main light soft is going to help conceal any oil/shine on our subjects face.


The scrim is placed on a stand directly in front of the main modeling light as shown above.

Finished Set


With the ambient room lights off, you can see the final look of our set above. At this point, we are ready to bring in our real subject, and make a few fine tweaks with the light positioning in order to adjust the exposure and any stray bits of light.
Hope you guys enjoyed this little behind the scenes look. To check out this behind the scenes video as well as our other tutorials be sure to subscribe to the SLR Lounge YouTube Channel.

Jumat, 13 Januari 2012

5 Tips To Transform Your Photography With Long Exposures


Employing long exposure photography techniques is a great way to create an image that makes others go “Wow!”.  If you’re unfamiliar with long exposure photography the major ingredient needed is low light conditions, which will require your camera to expose for longer periods of time. In fact it’s even possible to use filters to reduce the amount of light that comes through your lens so as to produce long exposures even during the brightest times of day.  Long exposures enable photographers to create an abstracted or surreal visual experience as opposed to reproducing a scene as we might see with our naked eye. In this regard long exposures allow you to artistically create something from a subject or scene that might otherwise seem ordinary with more standard photographic techniques.  With that in mind here are 5 tips to transform your photography with long exposures:

1. Create Atmosphere

Use long exposures to create an ethereal atmosphere. Weather conditions are often thought of as static, but in reality they shift and change slowly.  In many instances these changes occur too slowly to be held in our visual memory, but our camera can record these changes. Misty, foggy or smokey scenes can be created with moving clouds, surf, etc.

2.  Discover Hidden Movement

We are often so rushed that we seldom pause to take note of slow moving subjects. Once you start to look for slow moving subjects you quickly open a door to a new world of photo opportunities. Clouds, shadows, stars, plants and even people or animals make great long exposure subjects.

3. Create Using A Canvas of Light

While your camera shutter is open your sensor or film is in essence a canvas. Normally that canvas is open very briefly but with longer exposures the light running over your sensor acts a brush. If you let a scene unfold before you with your shutter open it is “painted” onto the sensor yielding blurs of light. If you work in an environment where there is little light you can manually paint light into a photo with strobes, flashlights, cell phones, etc. to create a unique image.

4.  Alternate Reality of Color

Back in the days of film there was a phenomenon where the color in your image could shift in long exposures from reciprocity failure. Different film types would experience reciprocity failure at different exposure times and produce varying types of color shifts. For many photographers these color shifts were seen as something to avoid, but many artist have employed this phenomenon to create very neat photographs. If you’re still shooting film this may be something you want to experiment with. If you’re shooting digital you can get color shifts by creating or using pre-made presets in Photoshop or Lightroom.

Note: This was taken with Fuji Velvia film whose reciprocity characteristic is to shift colors toward green hues.

5. Photograph the Ordinary to Make the Extraordinary

When you show someone something new that is under their nose all the time it reawakens their interest in it. Highlighting one or a combination of the visual effects previously discussed with long exposures of ordinary scenes will catch eyes. To find that eye catching photo you’ll need to experiment though as the net effect(s) of a long exposure may not be apparent until you view it.

Kamis, 12 Januari 2012

Wedding Videography Package Advice and Tips

 Have you ever found the options on a wedding videography package to be confusing and too technical. Well here is a general breakdown of most of the categories you will ever have to deal with (use the navigation to the right to skip ahead). This way the next time you look over wedding video package options, you can make an educated decision as to whether the services are worth the price

Cameras

Wedding Videographer Silhouette

"I don't want the videographers to miss anything, but it how much should I pay for extra cameras and videographers?"

If you find yourself asking yourself this question, you are not alone. The truth is that there is no way to know because each videographer and videography company is different. This is a list of the various factors that determine the type of coverage that you receive:

Style of Cameraman

This is the most important aspect of determining the quality and quantity of your wedding footage. As you watch one sample wedding video to another, pay attention to the aspects below to see that style they have and which style you are willing to pay for (note that the negative and critical connotations are for humor and a more human understanding):
Tripod Abuser
One thing that I feel has disgraced the profession is the multitude of videographers that are glued to a tripod. Tripod use (or abuse) has its purposes, which includes steady shots and smooth horizontal panning. But this is best for scripted footage, such as having actors and preplanned shot sequences. Many professional videographers are well-versed in this, but also have the ability to remove the camera from its anchor and get quality footage the is only attainable on foot. Honestly, anyone with one day of training can use a camera on a tripod efficiently and skillfully and I do not believe this justifies a $50 to $100 per hour pay scale.
The Running Man
Be wary of the fact that even though a tripod makes the footage stationary, not being anchored to one can mean that the videographer is running back and forth to get other shots. This may be distracting to the ambiance of the ceremony or reception and should be of concern. If you prefer the better footage with a great videographer, you might want to compromise and ask him to be less noticeable or distracting. My personal style is candid, where I often find great places in the background.
The Director
This can be a good thing and a bad thing. This is also seen in the best of photographers and the worst of photographers. I have been unfortunate enough to have seen wedding videos where the videographer barks orders and the whole thing is caught on tape. "Smile! Turn that way! Good!" Please avoid this at all costs. If a videographer is good at scripted shots, you will see the results in the sample footage. Some people can see it in the faces of the bride and groom unfortunately, unless they are great actors. This is why I prefer to use a hands-off approach to get natural and candid shots that reflect the actual joy they experience on their special day. This, however, will not yield any scripted sequence and this is an issue described further in the editing section.

The "2 cameras, 1 videographer" option

This means that one camera does not move. This is good as a backup to get footage at other parts of the wedding, but you really have to see footage to see if they use this effectively. If the editor cuts back and forth to the same frame, it may not be to your liking. Also, the backup camera ("B" camera) is usually one that costs less that $1000 (while your cameraman may be using a $4000 camera) and this is most noticeable when edited with the better footage from the "A" camera. I move around and get enough shots from multiple angles where having a "B" camera is not necessary.

New Toys, like the Button Camera

These are fun and great, but just make sure that it is worth it. See footage that actually uses the new gadget and see if you want that in your video at all, since the small cameras provide surveillance-style footage and the whole "Blair Witch" shaky-cam effect. Also, be wary of the fact that the groom may have to wear the camera (which is not that big) and the transmitter (which is not big either, but can get annoying for more than an hour at a time). If you like the feature and understand the pros and cons, I say go for it.

Sound

Wedding Package Sound
One option or feature that you may see on a wedding videography package list or brochure is the use of "wireless microphones." This brings sound into the picture. Many people do not realize how important audio can be to the video, since what good is it having your best man speak words from the heart to the camera with "YMCA" peaking the audio. Again, see actual footage of actual weddings to see what you will get, especially in loud situations such as the reception and important situations such as your vows. Ask the videographer if he is prepared.
One example involves a wedding where the altar was in front of a water fountain, of which the venue forgot to turn off as the bride and groom said their vows. My audio was drowned out by the constant pattering of water. Luckily, I was able to pull most of the audio out with effective sound editing and proceeded to buy a wireless lavalier mic the next week. A lavalier microphone is the type of microphone used in interviews, usually attached to the lapel. Grooms tend to dislike carrying the transmitter, so I alternatively place it somewhere near the altar. This also provides two audio streams where I, as the editor, have the option of choosing the clearer of the two.

Editing

Many videography studios will charge extra for special effects, slide shows, and highlight reels. Again, take a look at final products to see what you are buying. Many editors are not professional editors, using purchased templates to make their final product. This often results in a "cheesy" feel (I have permission to use that word because my clientele prefer to avoid "cheesiness" and use that word commonly). Be wary of paying for special effects where it takes 20 minutes of work to plug in footage into a template.
Music video styles can vary between great and downright horrible. Often, footage is clipped and just played to music in the background. If they take it one step further they will sync the clips with the beat of the music, often with transitions that may or may not please you. Many editors get plug-in packages that include wedding video transitions, for example the video clip morphs into a wedding ring and zooms off. This can cause what I call "effect overkill" and is the result of the person trying to let the editing program's options make the video good by including every possible feature. Here and there you will see photographers do the same, though it is generally tolerated less. A real, professional editor can make the footage look good with simple cuts and then adds special effects to carefully add emphasis to certain moments. Look at any movie that is done well. Most of the cuts and transitions are straight cuts or fade transitions that are well-placed.

Delivered Product

The style of a DVD case is often representative of the dedication and style that the studio has for its videos, though I would always say to not judge a book. However, the printing of the DVD is important. Adhesive labels will peel off in the years to come and may damage DVD players. The alternatives are inkjet-printable surfaces, which allows direct printing on the DVD. This isn't as good as silk-screening, but silk-screens (used on the DVD movies you buy) are expensive and meant for printing thousands of DVDs.
Make sure that you know how many videos you will receive and how much it will cost to get any extra copies beyond that. Also, see if you able to copy the DVD. I only charge for extra DVDs due to time and materials and I allow my clients to copy their video as much as they like. If you have the option of getting the video hosted on a website, find out if there are any extra costs and for how long the video will be hosted for (some places only offer this service for six months). Here is an explanation of my wedding video DVD covers and printing.

Extras

Extras, like a love story option or slide shows, are great. Just remember that some places offer extras to make easy extra money, while the true purpose should be to give the client flexibility and options to satisfy personal preferences. See if the price justifies the service. It's like getting air conditioning (when it is not included) with a new car; it gives the seller a chance to increase revenue on top of a closed sale. Explore the options and flexibility of a videographer, although. It shows skill and talent to be able to cater to each unique client.

Pricing

The truth: Many studios take advantage of the insane markup on wedding services and price accordingly. The best advice I can give is to pay for talent and skill. Expensive video equipment and pre-paid editing templates do not always justify a budget-tightening price. Many places are run by businessmen that hire amateurs. . This does not justify the cost by a long shot, but it allows the studio to have several offices and spend large amounts on advertising and marketing.
So when you are looking at wedding videography package options, try to see what they actually offer beyond flashy terms and "fluff." Many things should come by default with a wedding video montage. Be wary of when things are waved around like a banner (like "including 20 special effects") when they have little bearing on the caliber of the production. The best advice I could give is to look around and weigh the price for the end product. Always see actual weddings, instead of flashy promo clips that do not reflect what you will show your loved ones in the years to come.
 

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